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A diamond's
Cut is considered to be
the most important of the 4 Cs. It is important to understand how a diamond's
proportions and the relationship between them affects its brilliance, fire, and
scintillation.
Ideal Cut Diamond
Cut, more than any other quality
aspect, gives the diamond its sparkle. A diamond gets its brilliance and
scintillation by cutting and polishing the diamond facets to allow the maximum
amount of light that enters through its top to be reflected and dispersed back.
When all the angles are correct, the light that enters is dispersed back through
the diamonds top facets.
Inferior Cut Diamonds
Most diamonds are "spread" in their
cutting to retain maximum weight from the original rough. A heavier diamond will
result, but so does a dramatic sacrifice of potential fire and brilliance. The
width and depth have the greatest effect on how light travels within the
diamond, and how it exits in the form of brilliance.
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Shallow Cut Diamonds |
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When a diamond is cut too
shallow, light leaks out of the bottom, brilliance is lost and the diamond
appears watery, glassy and dark. A diamond with these characteristics is
referred to as a "fisheye". |
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Deep Cut Diamonds
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When a diamond is cut too
deep, light leaks out of the sides, brilliance is lost and the center of
the diamond will appear to be dark. A diamond with these characteristics
is referred to as a "nailhead". |
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A diamond cutter spends years mastering his craft, learning how best to cut a
rough diamond to achieve the ultimate cut with the fewest imperfections and the
least loss of carat weight. The better the cut, the more valuable the diamond.
Diamond Proportions
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Experts express differing opinions on the best
table size (the diameter of the largest facet on the top of the stone) and
the best depth for a diamond, because these factors alone are not
sufficient to accurately judge its cut.
Other factors - crown angle, girdle thickness,
pavilion depth-percentage (the ratio of depth to girdle diameter), culet
size, polish and symmetry - also play a role in judging a diamond's
overall cut quality. |
A diamond's cut is graded by several
measurements. Its depth percentage (a measurement of the height vs.
the width of the stone) and its table percentage (a measurement of the
diameter of the top facet of the stone vs. the stone's average width)
are two key factors in determining the quality of a diamond's cut.
These percentages are detailed on the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory Diamond
Grading Report that accompanies every A. Fishman & Son loose diamond.
Polish & Symmetry
Although polish and symmetry
are graded under 10X magnification they can both have an effect on the
overall appearance of a diamond. Polish refers to the quality of the
diamond's surface and includes such features as nicks, polish lines
and abrasions. Symmetry refers to the exactitude of the shape and
alignment of the facets.
Some of the symmetry characteristics of round
diamonds are listed below:
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Off-center culet |
Misshapen facets |
Off-center table |
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Facets not properly pointed |
Crown and pavilion
misalignment |
Table and girdle not
parallel |
The polish and symmetry grades are listed in each
diamond detail page and within the GIA diamond grading report. GIA graded
diamonds will have polish and symmetry grades of excellent (EX), very good (VG),
good (G), fair (F), or poor (P). A. Fishman & Son does not carry lower quality diamonds with polish
and symmetry grades of fair or poor.
Diamond
Cut Grading At A. Fishman & Son,
our finest and prettiest certified diamonds have been graded by
the Gem Trade Laboratory of the Gemological Institute of America
(the "GIA"). The GIA diamond grading laboratory is the most
respected and prestigious in the world.
GIA Cut Grading Criteria
GIA bases
their new (as of Jan. 2006) cut grade on a combination of
face-up appearance, design and craftsmanship elements that
all contribute to the diamond's fire and brilliance. They
employ a predictive computer model, based on over 70,000
individual diamond observations and 38.5 million
proportion sets, to determine a diamond's brilliance based
on its interrelated measurements. Most GIA diamonds graded
prior to January 1st, 2006 will not have a
laboratory-assigned cut grade. The GIA cut grade system
includes ratings of Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair and
Poor. GIA does not assign an Ideal cut and an Excellent
rating is their highest grade. Learn more about the
GIA Diamond Grading
Report and
Diamond
Dossier®.
More About Cut
How Does A.
Fishman & Son Grade Diamond Cut? A. Fishman & Son uses cut grades provided by GIA whenever these are
available. Many diamonds graded by the GIA prior to January 1st, 2006
do not have such grading. If a cut grade is not provided by the GIA,
A. Fishman & Son has evaluated the overall beauty of the diamond and
assigned it a Cut Grade based on both a proportion system that uses
measurements of depth and table, and an actual visual analysis
of the diamond to determine the amount of brilliance in a particular
diamond’s cut and how Pretty it is.
Unlike
sites like BlueNile, which can only use a system of statistics to
grade the cut of diamonds which they list (but don't own), because
they don't have the physical diamond available on hand to look at, A.
Fishman & Son owns its diamonds and only purchases diamonds which are
pretty and which we can wholeheartedly recommend to you. That is
why we can give you a physical evaluation of our diamonds.
For example, this is
BlueNile's cut grading system for Round diamonds. We think it is
very inadequate to allow you to know whether you are getting a pretty
diamond worth purchasing. Here is our evaluation of their
criteria based on 60 years of experience in buying and selling
diamonds. The bottom line is that you must speak to a diamond
source that really knows diamonds and who spends his own money to
purchase them. That is A. Fishman & Son!
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BlueNile
Cut Grade |
Depth %
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Table %
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A. Fishman 's
Comment |
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Ideal
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60.1 - 61.9 |
53 - 57
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We
consider a combination of 59.5% depth and 58-59% table to be
even better. |
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Very Good
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58.5 - 64
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52 - 60
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A Depth
% greater than about 62.5 is really very undesirable, as is a
table under 54%. The combination of a 64 depth and 52
table is a very ugly or very small looking diamond. |
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Good
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57.5 - 64.5
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51 - 65
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A.
Fishman will not sell diamonds at these extremes. We
consider diamonds with depths greater than 63 and less than 58,
and tables less than 54 and greater than 62 to be undesirable. |
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Fair
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56.5 - 67
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50 - 67
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A.
Fishman will not sell diamonds at these extremes. We
consider diamonds with depths greater than 63 and less than 58,
and tables less than 54 and greater than 62 to be undesirable. |
This photo illustrates why we reject
diamonds with heavy depths above 63. The diamond on the right is
what you get with such statistics. That type of diamond will
always sell for less than the diamond on the left. But what are
you getting for that lower price? You are getting a diamond
which looks much smaller than it should. If you figure what you
are paying for the effective size of the diamond, what it looks like,
you will find that you are paying a lot more for a lot less.

We recommend that you
read our articles:
in order to better understand how to
purchase a pretty diamond. |